Voodo friends

Author: d | 2025-04-24

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Try to get it to idle with that. Is there any reason for changing IAB's in the secondaries in this case?The boosters in the HP body are definately different than the stock 4779 body. The HP have bigger boosters of the downleg variety. The HP kit came with #74 jets for the primary and #84 jets for the secondary as the instructions state that some enrichment would be required to offset the improved air flow. I had the stock body running fantastic with #76-#78 jets in the primary though.I'll try the above suggestions and give you all an update. Hopefully I make some headway. In the meantime, if any other ideas pop up, please let me know. I'll be checking in for sure. Thanks again!Indy '69 357W in '79 Fox Mustang .030" Flat-Tops, 11:1 Compression. '86 T5, 8.8" Posi w/ 3.73 FRPP gears. Holley 750HP/DP and Fuel Pump, RPM Intake, RPM Heads (2.02"/1.60"), Comp Magnum Rockers, Comp Pushrods, Lunati Voodo Cam, BBK Long Tubes jdavis Pro Posts: 497 Joined: Thu Feb 08, 2007 10:41 pm Location: Post by jdavis » Wed Jul 23, 2008 10:18 am Eh, the secondary throttle idle speed screw is on the pass side at the rear. Usually its impossible to get to on car unless you change the fastener. Secondary iab or ifr should be ok unless you're running a really aggressive linkage setup, or its showing lean tip in when the secondaries begin to crack at part throttle. More than likely though your primary jetting will be taking care of most fueling at that point. Being a little leaner on cruise should be fine as long as it doesnt cause a lean spike and a stumble for you.Ifr's are more responive than iab's in general for tuning purposes in my experience. Most of the time you have to go down quite a bit to get its attention, but once you do it will change quickly. What I have found is that most of the time the iab affects more of the top end of the transition slot function (rpm wise). The ifr will affect it more in the low end and actually overall. It's kind of a shot in the dark, but before you mess with anything on the bleeds etc. I would stick your old jetting tuneup in the new main body and see where you're at with that first. You could also use a pin gauge to tell the difference between the bleeds that came in the body to your old stock body, and that may give you some information you need about what has changed. The iab's are probably bigger in the new main body i'm guessing. jmarkaudio Vendor Posts: 4224. Stream Friend Zone by voodo in your DJ software with Beatsource.

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Joined: Wed Sep 26, 2007 11:26 am Location: Florida Post by jmarkaudio » Wed Jul 23, 2008 10:33 am rmcomprandy wrote:Check to make sure the idle passages line-up from the new main body to the throttle body; some are designed differently.If the body was designed to be used with an 850 baseplate, your idle passages do not line up. It is fixable by slotting the baseplate. Mark Whitenerwww.racingfuelsystems.com____Good work isn't cheap and cheap work can't be good. olescarb Member Posts: 64 Joined: Thu Feb 08, 2007 5:59 pm Location: Burlingame Calif Contact: Post by olescarb » Wed Jul 23, 2008 11:10 am if you are using the stock 4779 (from a 4779-3? or later) primary metering block the size/diameter of the idle well causes the part throttle to be lean, also many of the later 4779 carbs holley did not drill the kill bleed in the primary metering block (but it is there on the secondary). we have used a quick fuel metering block on the primary with good results and we also have modified the stock block from a 4779-9 to match the original 4779 specs with good results.i hope this helps Henry @ olescarb Indy New Member Posts: 10 Joined: Mon Jul 21, 2008 7:24 pm Location: Post by Indy » Wed Jul 23, 2008 4:22 pm Hey guys,The original main body is a List 4779-2, I don't know if I could possibly have a metering block issue. I definately don't have a secondary idle speed screw on the original base-plate, is this a huge problem? The HP main body swap kit is 750cfm for a 4779 carburetor. I have measure the stock MAB's and IAB's in the primary side of the stock body (definately smaller), and chose the #70 IAB's and #30 MAB's that I've got in it now... Started with original jetting and have been going up on the jet sizes by 2, trying to tune out the stumble at cruise.I'm going to flip that carburetor tonight and check on the transfer slot setting, as I haven't since initial idle set-up. I'll probably take it apart tomorrow to check on how everything is lining up. My new air-bleeds will also be in tomorrow. My last quesion is, what is the "kill bleed" in the primary metering block? I've never heard of this, and when I have it apart I'll have a look for it as well as measure the IFR.Thanks again everyone, I'll keep you posted!Indy '69 357W in '79 Fox Mustang .030" Flat-Tops, 11:1 Compression. '86 T5, 8.8" Posi w/ 3.73 FRPP gears. Holley 750HP/DP and Fuel Pump, RPM Intake, RPM Heads (2.02"/1.60"), Comp Magnum Rockers, Comp Pushrods, Lunati Voodo Cam, BBK Long Tubes olescarb Member Posts: 64 Joined: Thu Feb 08, 2007 5:59 pm Location: Burlingame Calif Contact: Post by olescarb » Wed Jul 23, 2008 6:47 pm the kill bleed / syphon bleed is the upper most of the 3 air bleeds that are on the power valve side of the metering block the lower 2 go into the main well, the upper most (kll bleed) goes into the main passage that goes to the discarge nozzle.Henry @ olescarb jmarkaudio Vendor Posts: 4224 Joined: Wed Sep 26, 2007 11:26 am Location: Florida Post by jmarkaudio » Wed Jul 23, 2008 8:06 pm Here is a pict with holes. Courtesy MSV Mark Whitenerwww.racingfuelsystems.com____Good work isn't cheap and cheap work can't be good. us7race Pro Posts: 234 Joined: Wed Jan 16, 2008 7:08 pm Location: Tell City, IN Post by us7race » Thu Jul 24, 2008 6:22 am "QUOTE" I definately don't have a secondary idle speed screw on the original base-plate,We have one of these carb's 4779 750 Holley and it does have the Secondary throttle plate screw but it is on the bottom side of the carb on the fuel line side. Usually these are hard to move unless they have been adjusted before, you would need a small flat screwdriver to do this. Most likely have to take the carb off to do it because of room. I am certain it has one.. 1.18 60' 5.53@126 @2880lbs. N20 422sbc 2014 Indy New Member Posts: 10 Joined: Mon Jul 21, 2008 7:24 pm Location: Post by Indy » Thu Jul 24, 2008 8:05 am my apologize guys...Thanks for making me second guess myself. I knew I was in the right forum though! I had another look this morning and dang-it your right! There's the hole where a secondary idle speed screw SHOULD be. I bought the carb used/rebuilt 2 years ago (my first double pumper, used to run vaccum secondaries). My guess is that the guy who put it together forgot to put the screw in. The thing ran great with some jet changes on the original main body, just luck I guess. I didn't see any issues with it until the HP main body swap!Now, to add to my already vast collection of questions... What would be a good starting point on the transition slots both primary and SECONDARY thottle plates? I'll get a hex headed screw in there right away, so I can set it up on the intake.Sorry again guys, and thanks for your patience.Indy '69 357W in '79 Fox Mustang .030" Flat-Tops, 11:1 Compression. '86 T5, 8.8" Posi w/ 3.73 FRPP gears. Holley 750HP/DP and Fuel Pump, RPM Intake, RPM Heads (2.02"/1.60"), Comp Magnum Rockers, Comp Pushrods, Lunati Voodo

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Credit, I was not able to get close to the same tone using algo/modeling plugins on their own, ONLY Acustica seems to get you that tone with the plastic removed from the sound in that special way, and then it's a matter of shaping with a surgical EQ before you hit the Gold plugin. So no, I don't think it's Voodo at all, but it is a great smooth sounding compressor with the Analog tone that Acustica plugins immediately bring to the table unlike any other plugins.And if you want to have that exact sound without loading a combination of two things,then you want to get El Rey.I just think Gold 2 is better value for money. Just my opinion. Hope I don't "need a hug" like someone who wasn't convinced of the magical powers of the plugin was told.It's a really good plugin, but it really is not magic. Sorry, you get a hug too. You’re talking with absolute certainty about things that aren’t absolute. They can’t be quantified. This is why there’s a 30 free no obligation trial. It will work for some and it won’t work for some. This is all based on personal perception. There’s a difference between saying something doesn’t work for you personally, and saying something is not what’s its purported to be, full stop. So *from an anonymous moniker* when you want to take on the validity of me, Acustica, Studio DMI, and many of the world’s most successful mix engineers saying unequivocally that we have somehow pulled the wool over everyone’s eyes and ears, you want us to not react? No one is saying it’s uncool for you to have your own reaction to El Rey. I am saying it’s uncool to blow a hole in the credibility of all of us and proclaim that we are selling audio snake oil. The guts of El Rey are far more than an EQ curve and some compression. It took us many months to get it right. Does that make sense? Quote: Originally Posted by adl ➡️ Just purchased El Rey btw.Lowend is massive. Heard it and can´t live without it anymore. I usually use compressor / Tape emulations in a row on the Masterbus, El Rey is my new first compressor. After that UAD SSL Bus Compressor or UAD API2500. This way i get that nice El Rey lowend but the punchy SSD / API Snap. Works nice on electronic stuff.EDIT:Wow, downloading the real El Rey via this Aquarius thing is terrible slowwwwww. Since you seem to be using tape emulations on the master buss, you should also try Acustica's TAUPE if you haven't already. Acustica Audio Joined: Oct 2006 🎧 15 years Quote: Originally Posted by adl ➡️ Just purchased El Rey btw.Lowend is massive. Heard it and can´t live without it anymore. I usually use compressor / Tape emulations in a row on the Masterbus, El Rey is my new first compressor. After that UAD SSL Bus Compressor or UAD API2500.

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Moderator: Team Indy New Member Posts: 10 Joined: Mon Jul 21, 2008 7:24 pm Location: Holley HP main body swap Greetings everyone! I have "Googled" high and low in search of an answer to my Holley carburetor question. I've even e-mailed Holley with great details of my dilema, with no answer so far for 3 weeks now. In my search I stumbled upon some of the most knowledge filled threads in this forum on carburetor tuning and more! So instead of recapping all the things I've been through, I'll just sum it up in as few lines as possible. My basic engine set-up is in my signature below...I have a Holley 750 double pumper carburetor (List #4779), that I have had very little problems tuning for both best WOT performance (by feel) and smooth cruisability (1800rpm-ish). My tuning efforts never went beyond setting idle and changing jets and shooters. I purchased new, and swapped in a Holley HP main body, not my first time reassembling/rebuilding Holley carbs. Now, I'm having trouble tuning out some cruising speed "bobbles" with any convensional methods of tuning. The sparkplugs tell me lean bogging, but I've jetting this thing as high as #88's on the primary (with improvement, but not perfect)! Not wanting to go any further with jetting, I replaced the primary high-speed air bleeds with 5 sizes smaller and the same with the low-speed bleeds. Jets are down to #82's on the primary. Seem to be going in the right direction, but I'm unsure. That's where I've left it, and there was a whole lot of other things I've tried prior to this. In your best opinion, am I heading in the right direction? Also, the engine wants to idle a bunch richer than it did and should, but cruises lean. Is this an inherent problem with this HP main body swap? The HP carbs have 4-corner idle, where my swap does not, can this be a problem for the main body's metering capablility?Here's the current carb set-up...750 DP W/ HP main body swap#82 primary jets, #88 secondary jets6.5power valve#70 idle air-bleeds(from #75)#30 high-speed air-bleeds(from #35)Any help would be greatly appreciated.Thanks in advance,Indy '69 357W in '79 Fox Mustang .030" Flat-Tops, 11:1 Compression. '86 T5, 8.8" Posi w/ 3.73 FRPP gears. Holley 750HP/DP and Fuel Pump, RPM Intake, RPM Heads (2.02"/1.60"), Comp Magnum Rockers, Comp Pushrods, Lunati Voodo Cam, BBK Long Tubes Dodge Freak Guru Posts: 1711 Joined: Sun Oct 21, 2007 6:56 pm Location: Post by Dodge Freak » Tue Jul 22, 2008 8:56 am Your jets seem big, stock is 72-73 primary and 84 secondary...I used the profrom main body before and it work alright...I did have the increase the idle. Stream Friend Zone by voodo in your DJ software with Beatsource.

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Lives for gear Joined: Apr 2009 Posts: 822 🎧 15 years Quote: Originally Posted by michaelpv ➡️ El Rey or Gold 2? El Rey or Gold 2? El Rey or Gold 2? El Rey or Gold 2?... Only have money for one this black weekend. Tougher choice of the year... I would go for Gold 2. I tested El Rey on many different sources and I was able to get scary close to that sound by just using a Harrison Legacy Q EQ (To carefully emulate the frequency curve of El Rey with the below 100 bump, the slight dive in the mids etc) and then one of the gold compressors inserted after.It was able to make things feel and sound slightly better than with El Rey with this combo without too much effort.To give Acustica credit, I was not able to get close to the same tone using algo/modeling plugins on their own, ONLY Acustica seems to get you that tone with the plastic removed from the sound in that special way, and then it's a matter of shaping with a surgical EQ before you hit the Gold plugin. So no, I don't think it's Voodo at all, but it is a great smooth sounding compressor with the Analog tone that Acustica plugins immediately bring to the table unlike any other plugins.And if you want to have that exact sound without loading a combination of two things,then you want to get El Rey.I just think Gold 2 is better value for money. Just my opinion. Hope I don't "need a hug" like someone who wasn't convinced of the magical powers of the plugin was told.It's a really good plugin, but it really is not magic. Quote: Originally Posted by Le Man ➡️ Is someone have compare the antelope audio BA-6A with El Rey? I think El Ray's algo vst opponent is Fuse Audio Labs VCL 25A, both sounding sonically similar, big, not harsh and more focused on low end. Anyway, Ely Ray sounds kinda rounder and even less harsh. The compression sounds more solid too but VCL 25A can produce a little more nice distortion and is clearly at an advantage when it comes to peak control ... Acustica Audio Joined: Oct 2006 🎧 15 years Quote: Originally Posted by mastermat ➡️ I understand and respect that and I also like the tone in general (although I really cannot understand the hype fully tbh), but my experience with AA products is that most of the time after a short while with the plug in I tend to switch off any preamp and I (and my mixing clients - I don´t use AA stuff for mastering atm) ALWAYS seem to prefer the mixes when no AA preamps were involved. I guess it´s because I work with a hybrid mixing set up with many analog parts and some plug ins.if I engage the pre amp of an AA product for me something is just degrading the tone...making it less direct, hard